Trade partners can now sign up for an online account and buy parts online. Learn more.

How To Guides

Our easy to follow step-by-step guides have been developed to help you achieve stunning results every time.

How to Install Re Newel Cladding

Learn how to transform turned newels into a clean and modern square newel. Our Re Newel cladding system: Gives the stairway a modern new look Is an ideal way to modernise old structural newels which can be difficult to replace Available in Oak or Pine kits including a matching cap Unique to Richard Burbidge, Pine kits are ideal for painting to match a colour scheme Designed to clad an existing newel up to 90mm Compatible with all stairparts in our range Finished newel size is 112 x 112 x 1500mm  Follow along with our simple video. Happy Renovating!

READ HOW TO GUIDE arrow-right
How To Fit Elements Inset Glass Stair System

Learn how to install Richard Burbidge Elements Inset Glass system. Elements inset glass panel system has been designed to suit staircase pitches between 40° & 43°. Components have been independently tested to guarantee conformity to UK building regulations. Follow along with this step-by-step video. Alongside this video, please read full fitting instructions carefully prior to commencing your installation. If you have any queries or need assistance with your installation, please contact our Technical Helpline on 01691 678212. Full fitting instructions can be found here  

READ HOW TO GUIDE arrow-right
How To Fit Wainscot Wall Cladding

A step-by-step guide to fitting wainscot wall cladding, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. Step 1. Calculate amount of cladding required To calculate the amount of cladding required, you must measure the height and width of the area to be clad. Next, determine the installed width of your chosen cladding, remember this will be less than face width due to the overlap at the joints. Divide the area to be clad by the installed width of the cladding, then round up this figure to get the amount of pieces required. Lastly, determine the amount of pieces you will get out of each plank of cladding, when cladding to wainscot height, you may get two or more pieces out of each plank. Divide the amount of pieces required by amount of pieces you will use per plank, this will give you the amount of cladding planks required for your project. At Richard Burbidge, we have a selection of high-quality cladding options to choose from. Select our pine cladding when painting, or white oak cladding for a natural look. For this project we are using DEC6009 which is our 9 x 95 x 2400mm pine tongue and groove cladding.  Step 2. Decide on installation method If your wall is smooth and flat, you can fit cladding directly onto the wall using a strong grab adhesive. If your wall is dusty, use a diluted PVA adhesive beforehand and allow time for it to dry. When working with strong adhesives, ensure to properly ventilate the room and wear a mask. If your wall is uneven you can install battens first to fit the cladding onto. Fit battens around the perimeter of the area to be clad, ensure you use a spirit level when fitting the battens. Then, infill the area with battens, spaced at a maximum of 30cm from centre to centre. If you are fitting your cladding vertically, fit the battens horizontally and vice versa. If an area of your wall is uneven, you'll need to use thin pieces of wood off-cuts behind the battens, to keep the surface flat. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. Step 3. Cut cladding to length Take a spirit level and mark the desired height of the cladding onto the wall. Use the width of the cladding to work out where each piece will begin and end, including the overlap at the joint. If there is a considerable overlap, you will need to cut the first and last piece down to balance the end widths. When cutting down the first and last piece, ensure you are cutting the correct side of the cladding so it is still able to join together.   Next, measure your cladding to your desired length and cut each piece with a universal panel saw. Step 4. Add a decorative finish Before fitting your cladding, finish all of the faces and edges. This project can be customised to work with any décor and colour scheme. When working with raw cladding, you can choose to paint, stain, or wax. Make sure to check the instructions of your finishing products.  If you selected pre-finished cladding then you won’t need to add any decorative finishes, and you can skip this step. You can also choose to add a dado rail to the top of the cladding to give a clean seamless finish, ensure to paint or finish to match your cladding prior to installation. Step 5. Fit your cladding   Slot the first piece of cladding into place to ensure the size is correct. Next, apply grab adhesive to the back of the cladding putting a generous amount of adhesive 10cm in from each end and spaced at 30cm intervals. Slot into place, and use a spirit level to ensure it is straight. Then, fit all the remaining cut pieces in the same way. For the last piece, slide it into place from above and don’t apply grab adhesive as it will get onto the wall. Next, seal the gap between the top of the cladding and wall with decorators caulk for a secure fit. If you have chosen to add a decorative dado rail to the top of the cladding, fit by following the same steps as fitting cladding, and seal the gap at the top with decorators caulk.   Step 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!

READ HOW TO GUIDE arrow-right
How to Make and Fit a Pine Board Shelf

A step-by-step guide to making and fitting a pine board shelf, using Richard Burbidge pine board and basic woodworking tools and techniques. Step 1. Choose your pine board and brackets Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our pine board for this project. Our flat sheet pine panels are available in a variety of different sizes and thicknesses, with a board to suit every requirement. View our selection of pine board here. You will also need to select your brackets, which can be found at any hardware store. Opt for metal brackets for an on-trend industrial style, or select timber brackets for a natural and rustic look. For the more advanced DIY enthusiasts, you may opt to create your own timber brackets. You can do this using pine board and a coping saw. Also consider the weight of the items you will be placing on the shelf, you will need to select heavy duty brackets for weighted items. Step 2. Cut to size and add your creative flair to your shelf Depending on the size of pine board you have selected, you may wish to cut your pine board to your desired length. You can do this using a mitre box and saw.  Next, if you wish to decorate your shelving, you can either paint, wax or stain depending on your desired look. For a smooth finish you can sand down your pine board. You can also add a decorative cover around your shelf, you can do this using decorative mouldings. We used DEC6014 for a more put together finish. View our range of decorative mouldings here. These steps are entirely optional and all depend on the final look you are striving for. This project can be customised to work with any décor, in any room. There’s an endless list of ways that you could choose to add your own creative flair. Step 3. Decide where to place your shelves Next, consider where you will be placing your shelves. Ensure you use a pipe and cable detector before nailing or drilling into any walls. You must also consider the type of wall you have. When fixing to a masonry wall you will need a masonry drill and wall plugs. If fixing to a stud wall, use a stud detector to locate the vertical timber studs, you will not require wall plugs with a stud wall. Ensure that you wear safety glasses and gloves when drilling. Step 4. Fit brackets to wall We recommend fitting the brackets to the wall first. Use a spirit level to make sure your bracket is straight, mark the holes onto the wall with a pencil, and then drill into the wall. Fit wall plugs into the drilled holes if you have masonry walls. Then, fit the bracket into the drilled holes by using screws and a screw driver. Repeat this process for the other bracket, again using a spirit level to ensure the brackets are perfectly aligned. Step 5. Fit board to brackets Next, hold up your pine board onto your brackets to determine where the bracket holes will be on your pine board. Take a pencil and mark these holes. Remove the pine board, and drill pilot holes into the shelf, ensuring you don’t drill through the board. Lastly, attach the board with screws and your shelf should be up and ready! Step 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page here. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!

READ HOW TO GUIDE arrow-right
How To Make a Clothes Stand

A step-by-step guide to creating a DIY clothing stand, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and basic woodworking tools and techniques. This project is so versatile and can be used in any room, from a towel stand in the bathroom, a coat rack in the hallway, to a clothing stand in the bedroom. This project can be completed within an hour, and is perfect as a first DIY project. 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style you’re going for – we recommend our dowel mouldings for this project. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality and can totally transform the look and character of a whole room. If you are going for a contemporary style we recommend painting, our pine dowel works best with paint. To achieve a natural Scandinavian look, use our light hardwood dowel and opt for staining to achieve a professional finish. View our full range of dowels here. 2. Cut the dowels to length Next, we must decide on the height of the clothing stand, we recommend cutting the dowels to 1500mm which is just under 6 foot, this would be the ideal height for most homes. If the clothing stand is for a children’s room you may want to cut the dowel slightly smaller, 1100mm would be ideal for most children. You can make your own adjustments to the height if necessary. Using a tape measure, mark your chosen measurement onto the dowels. Using a panel saw carefully cut the dowel at a 90 degree angle along the line you have drawn. Repeat this process to the four dowels, then lightly sand the ends until smooth. 3. Add your own creative flare This project can be customised to work with any décor, in any room. There are many different ways you can add your own creative flare to this project. You can paint each dowel a different colour, paint dots or stripes onto the dowels, or even draw your own unique design to really make the clothing stand your own. There’s an endless list of ways that you could choose to add your own creative flair, but remember to sand first and always follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions which may require you to prime before painting. 4. Tie the dowels together Next, you will need to tie the dowels together. Like painting, there are dozens of different materials you can choose to use, with rope being the most sturdy and secure. You can use any material as long as it is strong enough to hold the dowels together, this could be some leather or ribbon that matches your décor. Once you have decided on the material, gather the dowels together, tightly wrap the rope around the dowels approximately 45cm from the top, and tie them in a secure double knot. Stand the dowels up and evenly separate. 5. Place your stand in its new home The last step is to decide where you are going to place your new clothing stand. This project is so versatile and would work well in any room, from a towel stand in the bathroom, a coat rack in the hallway, to a clothing stand in the bedroom, this project is perfect for all homes. The best part about this project is that the stand can also be folded down and stored away ready to bring out to impress your guests and hold their coats.

READ HOW TO GUIDE arrow-right
How To Fit Scotia Beading

An easy-to-follow guide to fitting scotia beading, using Richard Burbidge mouldings and simple tools and techniques. The nature of wooden flooring and laminate flooring means that you'll need to leave a gap around the edge of the room as you lay it. This is because these types of flooring naturally expand and contract, so you need to leave some space around the skirting boards. This gap can sometimes be unsightly, which is why adding scotia beading is a popular DIY trick. Scotia is a decorative moulding that covers any visible gaps without removing the skirting board. You can choose a scotia style that suits the look of your room, matching or contrasting with the flooring. Making sure scotia beading is installed correctly is a relatively simple procedure - here's our guide: 1. Choose your Richard Burbidge moulding Firstly you’ll need to decide the style of floor moulding you’re going for. At Richard Burbidge we offer a wide range of scotia bead styles, from decorative to minimalist. Richard Burbidge mouldings are of the highest quality, so will perform the key function and also totally transform the look and character of a whole room for a professional-looking finish. Top tip: Select a scotia style and colour that matches the skirting boards for a cohesive look. Wondering 'how much scotia beading do I need'? Measure the perimeter of your room to determine the total length of scotia required, then add another 10-20% as a precautionary measure for wastage. 2. How to cut Scotia beading You'll need to use a mitre joint to connect lengths of scotia beading together. Of course, safety wear (protective gloves, knee pads, eye goggles etc) are recommended for use during any work. Cut the beading at a 45-degree angle to guarantee a seamless finish for the gap-filling boards. To cut corners, measure the distance between the two corners and mark this plus the direction of the cut onto the back of the scotia with a pencil. For the next step, you'll need a mitre box, sandpaper and a mitre saw. Cut at the 45-degree angle in the direction of the mark. Cut into the scotia to make a mitre cut in the opposite direction, and sand down the ends until completely smooth. Check that both ends fit together - you might need to sand a bit more or use a block pane to make sure the fit is flush. 3. How to install Scotia beading  For places where the scotia is being fitted in a place where the end will be left open (for example near a door or archway), some homeowners opt to attach a return piece to the end for a neater finish and secure surface. To install a scotia return, you'll need to mitre cut the end that's being left 'exposed', then cut into another piece of scotia in the opposite direction to the first cut. Cut the second piece to size and put them together to make sure they fit together. You can then use PVA to fit the return onto the end and secure it against the wall. Make sure to follow your chosen adhesive's instructions. 4. Securing the moulding to the wall When it comes to how to fit scotia beading, you have a few options. Some installers choose to use nails which provides a reliable hold. Others choose adhesive to help avoid unsightly nail holes for a more professional-looking finish. To fit scotia with nails, first you'll need to secure the beading in place. Use nails every 30cm along the scotia, being careful not to hammer any nails into the floor. Use either a nail gun or a hammer for precision. As a precautionary measure, you might want to use a pipe and cable detector to avoid hitting any electric cables or hidden pipes. For adhesive fitting, use a grab adhesive along the back of the scotia, and carefully stick to the wall (avoiding the flooring!). For external mitres, apply PVA. You can use flexible decorators caulk or decorator's filler to fill any gaps between the scotia and the skirting board. Wipe any excess with a damp cloth to smooth the surface to create a potentially unnoticeable room feature that brings the design together. 5. Add the finishing touches Once the scotia beading is correctly applied, you can go over it with decorators caulk to patch up any gaps. If you have selected pine scotia (or another varnishable wood), there are many different finishing options. You might consider a wood stain for a traditional look, paint for a contemporary finish, or choose to retain the original look of raw pine. The finish you choose will help enhance the room's décor and match your existing skirting. If you decide to stain the scotia or leave as it is, we recommend sealing the surface with an oil or varnish. Safety wear (such as gloves and a mask) is always recommended for varnishing in enclosed spaces. 6. Share your DIY renovation project We love seeing how you have transformed your home with Richard Burbidge products. Upload a picture of your DIY project to Instagram or Facebook and tag us @richard_burbidge. You can also upload your images to our testimonials page. We can’t wait to see what you create with Richard Burbidge mouldings!  

READ HOW TO GUIDE arrow-right

Search our product catalogue